Lapis
Review! Adams Morgan, Washington D.C. // Afghan Restaurant // modern yet cozy bistro serving up elevated ethnic comfort food
the ELEVATOR PITCH
First off, I’d like to credit my sister-in-law and her husband for the recommendation! Not only was Lapis the best way to kickoff my Washington D.C. culinary exploration, but it was my gateway into the world of “Bib Gourmand” restaurants (I love love love that MICHELIN has been offering this award since 1997, to provide us with deliciously satisfying meals at reasonable prices).
Lapis will embrace you like a grandmother’s hug, engulfing you in her charm and warmth. She carries herself with quiet poise, highly stylish in her whitewashed wall panel molding adorned with a variety of framed vintage photos, Afghan designs living in the rugs and room dividers, worn wooden tables and chairs sporting stunning tablespaces of dainty bud vases, romantic candlesticks, and eclectic ceramic plates. A dining experience at Lapis will have you turning your wheels to try and come back as soon as possible. I, for one, have fallen in love with the interior so much that I wish I could host a special event here!
Even more than the beautiful interior, the story of the family behind Lapis has captured my heart. The owners, Zubair and Shamim Popal (a husband-and-wife duo), immigrated to America in 1987, after the Soviet Invasion, with nothing in tow but their creativity and tenacity (Executive Chef Shamim at the time apparently didn’t even know how to cook rice).
Three decades later, and with a large dash of feedback from family members on Chef Shamim’s cooking, the Popals now own three restaurants—Lutéce, Berliner, and Lapis—under the Popal Restaurant Group umbrella. From not even knowing how to cook rice to now winning Michelin’s Bib Gourmand every year, I find encouragement in her story that talent truly isn’t born overnight. The key is to be steadfast in those difficult beginnings when you’re an amateur and the road seems long!
menu items
honest reviews below 👇
Chalow: white rice + cumin, pairs soooo nicely with the leftover dredges from all of the other dishes (rating: 9/10)
Mantoo Beef: the beef filling flavor was onion-y and spiced, the texture was “loose”—not like a congealed meatball, which was lovely. The dumpling wrapper was the perfect thickness and chew, and the sauce & toppings complimented the mantoo so well, I couldn’t imagine eating it without. The dumplings are stuffed, and with all of that flavorful beef, it’s a Middle Eastern flavor party in your mouth! (rating: 10/10)
Lamb Shank: it may look a little bare by itself on the plate, but it will make up for it in flavor, texture, and punch. It’s super tender, and differs from other lamb shanks that I’ve had in that there is zero gamey taste, and the tomato-y undertones work SO WELL. The portion ends up being perfect if you order an appetizer, another entree, and dessert! Get ready to ladle that sauce on your Chalow. (rating: 10/10)
Buranee Kadoo: I wouldn’t have thought to get this but it was highly recommended by my sister-in-law as the dish that she still thinks about from Lapis. And now I understand why! Lapis bakes the pumpkin in such a way that it becomes melty-soft yet light and fluffy. It doesn’t even taste like pumpkin (it had baked sweet potato energy), so you pumpkin pie haters, don’t be deterred! The minty sour cream sauce opened my eyes to the wonders of flavor ingenuity. Don’t believe me? Go order this and report back :) (rating: 10/10)
Pistachio Ricotta Cake (Pista): this may be one of the best desserts I’ve ever had. (disclaimer: I took my best guess at what each layer was… don’t sue me) Each layer was so distinct yet melded together as if the cake wasn’t comprised of different layers! The sponge cake had a sandy texture (in the best kind of way), the “pistachio cheesecake” layer had a powerful pistachio flavor that reminded me of pistachio gelato from Europe, and the “whipped cream ricotta cheese cake” layer was dreamy smooth in consistency. The entire cake had the perfect balance of all of the elements: tang, sweet, creamy cheesy. Not too decadent, yet sweet enough. Overall, a stunning experience that I would request over and over. (rating: 12/10)
Every item on the menu will show you, over and over again, to not put things in a box. How could something so simple as baked pumpkin taste so complex? How could a single leg of lamb not feel lacking at all? “Homestyle” and “elevated” may seem like opposites that can’t be used to describe the same menu, but the team at Lapis have proven otherwise. Enjoying a meal at Lapis means you get the best of both worlds: comforting homestyle flavors that are complexly layered in a way only one with culinary instincts can do. You will enjoy perfection in every bite that you can’t find anywhere else.
the RÉSUMÉ
address // 1847 Columbia Rd NW, Washington, DC 20009
operations // Monday - Friday, 11:00 AM - 3:00 PM & 5:00 PM - 9:00 PM; Saturday - Sunday, 10:00 AM - 3:00 PM & 5:00 PM - 10:00 PM
logistics //
I 110% recommend you make a reservation here first! The spots fill up fast, but we were able to get a dinner spot day-of on a weekday
take a bus to Mintwood Pl. stop
take the metro to Woodley Park or Dupont Circle stop; 15-20 minute walk from there
use a ride share option for the least hassle
amenities //
3-4 public bathrooms, no changing table
there’s downstairs dining space that oozes “speakeasy bar” vibes
indoor seating & covered/enclosed outdoor patio seating available
not accessible (tight dining space, only path to bathrooms is a narrow stairway down, lighting can be dim in the evening, etc.)
vibes // Middle Eastern ornate with a homey charm
menu // everything is made with halal ingredients, and from scratch!
breakfast/brunch:
beverages ($4.00 - $6.00): coffee (drip, cold brew, etc.); espresso (cappuccinos, lattes, etc.), hot tea, chai, matcha, hot chocolate
⭐ dairy-free milk options available (almond, oat)
⭐ libations ($10.00 - $29.00): cocktails & bottomless mimosas
food food ($6.00 - $37.00): croissant, avocado toast, frittata, pancakes, waffle, acai bowl, yogurt, etc.
dinner:
beverages & libations ($5.00 - $16.00): chai selection, mocktails, cocktails, draft beer, wines
food food ($7.00 - $40.00): starters/appetizers, soups, salads, Afghan dumplings, vegetarian entrees, grilled entrees, sides (fries, rice, naan, etc.)
desserts ($10.00 - $12.00): rice pudding, pound cake, custard, etc.
recs // like everything we ordered? But for SURE the Mantoo Beef, and Pistachio Ricotta Cake. YUM.
kudos //
2021 Michelin
2022 RAMMY Chef of the Year (D.C.)
2023 Bib Gourmand (but really every year there’s been a guide in D.C.)
site // Lapis
~ cath!!
The Buranee Kadoo looks delicious!!