I went to Berlin, Munich, & Rothenburg ob der Tauber in Germany
in September 2022 to visit the then-Fiancé-now-Husband, and here's a list of the places that I've experienced to fuel your own adventure!
Okay, so I did not at all expect to fall in love with the city of Berlin and the country of Germany as much as I did (so much so, that I find myself feeling more nostalgic for the places we visited than my then-Fiancé-now-Husband, Sean, who studied there for a year! What is this phenomenon! …one could only label it irony).
Whenever I’ve thought of traveling to Europe, it’s always with a yearning to visit Spain & France & Italy. So it’s actually kind of funny that my first personal trip ends up being none of those three, and is actually Germany of all places. Nothing against the country, just that it has never graced my thought space for more than a minute, and that single minute has usually been filled with all of the ignorant clichés: Germany is up-tight & stiff, full of nit-picky rules to follow, with a food scene comprised of only pretzels, sausage, sauerkraut, and beer. Nothing like getting to know a place first hand to wipe away all preconceptions, and getting extremely humbled while doing so.
My two weeks in Germany was spent 90% in Berlin, 8% in München, and 2% in Rothenburg ob der Tauber. So naturally, most of this travel guide will be about Berlin, until I go back for another visit! 🙂
Berlin
It didn’t take more than a day in this city for all of my Germany-is-prim-and-trim-and-clean-and-everything-is-on-time notions to be wiped cleanly away like a good Clorox swipe to a post-meal table of messy eaters. There is graffiti on every inch of concrete, litter unashamedly promenading, public transit that was sometimes late and sometimes early… definitely not the freshly shaven Munich that I was expecting, but still miles better than New York City and its streets full of garbage bags.
But once the shock factor faded away, Berlin’s beauty hit me at full force. He effortlessly weaves the past into the present. History has been honored, revived, and preserved into the practicality of the Now and into the intentionality of the Future. Berlin is the paragon of someone who has gotten a handle on his identity: he knows his roots and has accepted his past as paramount to molding who he wants to be versus being shackles that stunt him. He walks confidently in his style and doesn’t care about fitting in with the other German cities.
Now let’s talk about where we putzed! These will be categorized by Berlin borough (or Kiez in German) so if you want to hit up a slew of these in a day, it’s already somewhat organized for you to do that 😉
Neukölln
{very diverse population; not many sights but tons of food; this was where I stayed during my visit!}
destinations
Ring Schmeide Berlin // a chill jewelry maker that recruits other budding jewelry makers. We worked with one of his trusted hires, Francesca, to create our wedding bands (I could not decide on a design to save my life); loved that we were able to support local while also checking off a wedding to-do item.
food food
{repetitive word usage to emphasize legit-ness of its qualification as being meal material; defined as anything that contains nutritional value to fuel that hot bod of yours}
Best Gemüse Kebap // there are so many of these stands selling gyros on the streets of Berlin, so I can’t say if this one is better than ALL the other ones out there, but they are definitely better than the ones I’ve had in America (and possibly equivalent to the one I had in Athens, Greece).
Kitten Deli // solely sells vegetarian and vegan Mediterranean items, but what she lacks in animal protein she makes up for in flavor. Kitten Deli is perfect for one of those moments where you’ve just finished a pastry crawl through the city and feel like you need to make amends to your body for all the sugar consumed.
Asude Yemek Dünyasi // oh ma gawd, this. THIS! The food here is the warmth your belly needs on a rainy cold day, and really just any day. And also wallet-friendly! I still dream about the meat-over-rice situation they sell. 🥹
Ammazza che Pizza // what I love about this place (besides their amazing Neapolitan pizza) is they provide you all of the add-on-top-of-your-pizza oils, vinegars & seasonings without your asking. Nothing is more empowering than feeling like you know how to use all of these condiments like an unabashedly particular Neopolitan pizza connoisseur.
schnackos
{defined as anything from a nibble to a dessert; anything edible that the responsible adult in you wouldn’t comfortably qualify as meal material but wish could be}
La Maison // home of the bomb-est of bomb ham-cheese-butter baguette sandwiches and croissants with a high quality-to-price ratio. You don’t need to live in Paris to make those French lifestyle dreams a reality if you just start coming here on the reg.
Gorilla Bäckerei // cute modern chic bakery that makes some crazy good croissants; I’d rank their croissants THE BEST in Berlin 😍
Moriz // not sure if German rice pudding is really any different from other rice puddings, but they’ve opened my eyes to the potentials and now rice pudding is something that sits fondly in the back of my brain
Fräulein Frost // the cutest ice cream shop that carries all of the classic German flavor options and is the perfect candidate if you’re looking for a budget-friendly everyday treat destination
Croissanterie // local bakery that sells light bites and—you guessed it!—CROISSANTS! I’d come here for the simplistic open-faced croissant sandwiches they effortlessly display behind glass.
Cafe Bread // we stopped here on our way to Ring Schmeide for a quick bite before a 4-6 hour session of ring making; definitely the classic, “caj” (as in, casual!) Bäckerei you see at every corner in Berlin; wouldn’t recommend you go out of your way to try them out, but just fine if you’re in the neighborhood and are in dire need of an energy source.




Friedrichshain-Kreuzberg
{merged in 2001 to become one borough, Friedrichshain is known for its party scene and Kreuzberg is known for its hip-&-cool everything}
destinations
East Side Gallery // 0.8 miles (1.3 km) long of conserved Berlin Wall covered by the graffiti art of 118 artists. A beautiful way to celebrate Berlin’s unification (and also doubles as a fun photo-op!).
Markthalle Neun // indoor food/market hall vibe with stands that sold provisions as well as functional products (i.e., water bottles, cooking equipment, etc.). When we went many of the vendors weren’t in their stalls so it felt a little underwhelming.
Niessing // love love love their jewelry design. Simplistic and unique, with lots of texture and shapes that you don’t see in the “Kay Jewelers” of the world. I would totally buy one of their pieces! (totally was ogling at their bling bling, hint hint wink wink @Sean 😏)
food food
Annelies // the place that changed my mind about pancakes. You must go. Enough said.
Salumeria Lamuri // fresh, house made pasta creations that change with the seasons served in a moody ambiance that makes you want to be fancy 💋
Lalibela // well-done Ethiopian with great ingredients; another quality option if you’re looking for a warming, nourishing meal!
Good Morning Monday Cafe // this place epitomizes the statement that European breakfasts > American breakfasts. European breakfast feels like an intentional pause to fuel your body with goodness, versus the on-the-go, sugar-ridden mornings of America.
goldies // somehow this place really has become a sincere rec for me?! I’m always down for French fries and fried chicken, and I love how goldies elevates these “junk” foods to more than junk by using quality ingredients and punchy flavor combos.
schnackos
Albatross Bakery // the most innovative and delish pastries possibly ever. It’s weird, because we’ve definitely been to other pastry shops that offer probably the same level of innovation, but my brain always stacks Albatross at the tippity top. They have quality classics, and I just love their specials.
Kaiser Patisserie // Located on Kurfürstendamm (which is loaded with high-end brands), it is definitely designed for the occasion. They have one of the most elegant dining spaces, and offer the prettiest patisserie items! I just wanted to save all of these beautiful entremets in my heart ❤️
Dosha Teehaus // the branding of this bubble tea shop is chef’s kiss! But the actual tea was a little too watered down for me 🫤
19grams // sourcing, roasting, and selling coffee beans since 2002, they are one of top specialty coffee shops in Berlin. We went to pick up a bag of coffee beans for a friend and learned from talking to the barista that while The Barn is touted to have “the best coffee,” 19grams has the better work culture! (their name comes from the fact that double espressos use 19 grams of ground coffee. So cool.)


Mitte
{heart of Berlin}
destinations
Brandenburg Gate // the symbol of German unity and totally a must-visit when you’re in town. If you’re looking to take a photo, I’d recommend one from behind, there are less tourists!
Staatsbibliothek zu Berlin - Preußischer Kulturbesitz // the State Library of Berlin, has the prettiest courtyard!! But you can’t really see much of the inside because you need a library card 🫤
Memorial to the Murdered Jews of Europe // opened 2005, constructed of 2,711 grey concrete slabs of different heights, arranged on a 19,000 square meter site, designed by New York architect Peter Eisenman. The vast undulating pattern is quite an experience to walk through. I love these kinds of things that leverage perspective and shapes to distort human perception.
Berliner Dom // the Berlin Cathedral is right on the side of Lustgarten, a public park (we didn’t have a chance to go inside, but it’s another pretty thang)
Checkpoint Charlie // famous crossing point between East and West Berlin in 1961 that’s now just a large steel beam with a picture of former U.S. Army tuba player, Jeff Harper. It’s crazy to think it wasn’t too long ago where people couldn’t walk freely in this city, and now they have souvenir shops lining that intersection.
Alexanderplatz // the largest square in Berlin that I began to think as the center of all things… shopping!! It’s right next to the Berliner Fernsehturm (Berlin TV tower), so we were able to navigate to Alexanderplatz without a map just by using that landmark. Totally made me feel like a local 😝
Friedrichstraße // street decked out with luxury brands, high-end department stores, you get the drift; it spans from central Mitte down to Checkpoint Charlie, with some parts of the street more poppin’ than others (some of the storefronts felt closed?). Here are two favorites of mine:
Gusti Leder // quality leather products at such an affordable price. They have so many bag and notebook options, and you can also order from their online store. Both me and my brother were in heaven!
Rausch Schokoladenhaus // 3 story chocolatier for the Rausch chocolate brand. The base floor showcases chocolate sculptures and edible products for you to buy, the second story is a mini-museum that carried the history & behind-the-scenes of the brand, and the third story is a classy dining area that you must make a reservation for to even cross the premises.
Hackescher Markt // shopping area featuring newer and younger Berlin labels; notable brands for me:
Trippen // a shoe brand that is timeless, unique, and ever avant-garde, that I somehow spotted first on a lady in a bakery in Charlotte, NC. Isn’t that crazy?! I truly, truly, tried so desperately hard to love one of these shoes so I could buy it and wear it around and feel so “fashion,” but I think their designs are a little too avant-garde for me. Nevertheless, such a cool brand that I hope to sport one day!
Bücherbogen Inh. Günter Meyer Buchhandlung // large & airy bookstore
The Barn // one of the leading specialty coffee roasters (for 10 years?!) and providers in Berlin, and wow was it packed! We just bought a bag of coffee beans for a friend and bounced, but the barista was super helpful in helping us choose the perfect bean.
Torstraße // another shopping street that features original small design shops, boutiques, art galleries, and restaurants (did you know there could be so many different types of shopping?)
Tiergarten // like New York City’s Central Park with walking paths, greenery, and statues scattered throughout; definitely Berlin’s largest and most frequented inner-city green space
Kolonnadenhof // beautiful columned walkways. We spotted a couple taking their wedding photos there, and I had a moment where I wished I could’ve, too.
food food
Zur letzten Instanz // classy German food, this is the oldest restaurant in Berlin!! It’s not often you can dine IN age without it being set up as some tourist museum attraction.
Augustiner am Gendarmenmarkt // classic German brewery/pub vibes & food that is so popular all the time. Definitely takes some planning ahead to eat here - you must reserve in advance!
LIU Nudelhaus (成都味道面馆) // really really good Chinese noodles. Not hand-pulled, but the texture still feels like it was?? Like how??
AMRIT // an Indian couple from Sean’s church recommended this chain to us and BOY do I understand why. But also, you don’t need to twist my arm to eat Indian food, ever 😝
Currywurst Express // currywurst is SUCH a thing here (it’s as prevalent on the streets as döner kebab shops), but not quite my thing… it’s just a cut up bratwurst covered in ketchup mixed with cumin (+ a side of fries). So order some to say you tried it, but don’t expect it to be a ground breaking moment for your taste buds.
schnackos
Einstein Kaffee // THE chain for coffee and coffee’s snack pals; but don’t expect specialty coffee level coffee, just better-than-Starbucks level coffee.
Zàgara // the place that changed Sean’s mind about gelato. SERIOUSLY a gem; the flavors are sooo true. So real and sincere and genuine. Haven’t been to Italy yet but I’m sure this gelato is close to that level of greatness.
Zeit für Brot // where cinnamon rolls are just the beginning; I loved seeing all of the different sweet rolls lined up ready for me to bite into their yeasty goodness!
SammyS Berliner Donuts // wow oh wow, the potential of a doughnut has just been unlocked! Dough so soft I could sleep on it for days and jelly-filled doughnut bellies so real you’d think I’d just stolen it from a berry harvest day.
CANAL Artisanal Ice Cream & Pastry // eclairs + ice cream, eclairs, and ice cream. What more can you want? (half of the reason I was drawn to this place was their signage design 😍 another Jeni’s vibe) Though I’d still rank Zàgara as my favorite ice cream/gelato joint!
COMEBUY // bubble tea shop originating from Taiwan in 2002 that Sean’s classmate recommended; but it felt like a Kung-Fu-Tea-level chain? Over all not impressed and wouldn’t go back or recommend.
The Visit // selecting, roasting, brewing, serving coffee since 2016; another specialty coffee company competing with The Barn and 19grams. Funnily enough, we went and ordered a matcha and a chai, I guess we didn’t know about the coffee till after 🙃 (they do have free wifi!)






Pankow
{“The North”}
destinations
Heipl Berlin // the cutest little shop with high quality, curated brands & items; specializing in home decor, dishware, bags, and stationary. I wanted all the things here! And to top it off, the shopkeeper is this sweet German woman who married an American man and they both decided to move back to Berlin to settle down.
Harolds Bags // I was looking for a small crossbody that would fit any outfit, and Harolds’ Evening Bag checks this box over and over. I’ve been using it every day since purchase (it’s been a year now) and it still holds up so well, fitting everything I need (phone, cards, cash, chapstick, feminine hygiene products, etc.). Highly recommend!
food food
Lao Xiang 中餐厅 // nothing like some authentic Chinese food when you’re jet lagged and need comfort. Lao Xiang has so many options and they execute them WELL.
Wen Cheng // hand pulled noodles that weren’t that great because they were THICC and carby, and the entire dish needed more fixin’s. This place isn’t worth your time.


Tempelhof-Schöneberg
destinations
Kaufhaus des Westens (KaDeWe) // eight floors of WOW—they offer a wide range of luxury brands and products that cover all facets of life (clothing to accessories, to books and decor, etc.). Everything is so beautiful, I couldn’t stop gawking.
Tempelhofer Feld // used to be Berlin’s airport (which they closed down to build a bigger one elsewhere), now it’s a huge public park that is perfect for bikers, runners, and roller skaters! We saw so many roller skaters, it made me want to get into the sport.
Berlin Church of Christ // small home church that meets in Connection Cafe; they have embraced the simplicity of hymnal worship and have very scripture-based sermons.
food food
Doree // Argentinian restaurant that we went to eat at after going to church the first Sunday after I landed; the food was delicious, but I couldn’t tell what made it “Argentinian”
schnackos
Lenôtre Paris // bakery on the 7th floor of KaDeWe that sells everything you could ever imagine. Their dine-in space is super limited though, so be prepared to go table-hunting after your purchase.
Five Elephant // began in 2010 (another specialty coffee roastery), known for providing stellar cakes/coffee treats to go with their excellently brewed coffee; their cheesecake is a neighborhood favorite!
Jones Ice Cream // okay, this place oozes SERIOUS Jeni’s Ice Cream energy (from sourcing fine ingredients, making everything in-house, to the font of “Jone’s”?!), but I think Jeni’s still takes the cake (not that they were formally competing). Kind of not worth the hype?
g4 // bubble tea shop that piqued my interest with its name, but the flavor/bubbles weren’t anything to write home about. But that may just be how bubble tea in Berlin is like? 😢


Charlottenburg-Wilmersdorf
destinations
Kaiser Wilhelm Memorial Church // Another famous landmark that we happening to walk past on the way to some food pit stop I had us exploring
Schloss Charlottenburg // Beautiful mansion/palace in Berlin with a beautiful lake and grounds surrounding the palace. They have self-guided tours and tickets are super affordable (~10€ each?).
food food
The Pink // I totally got swindled to coming here because of how Instagrammable they claimed to be. Which, yes, they are quite aesthetic, but the food itself is pretty average.
schnackos
The Alley // the Purple Rice Yogurt drink almost made me happy cry—it tastes just like the yogurt I’ve had in Shanghai that I absolutely LOVE.


München
The main and only reason why we decided to venture out of Berlin on our humble budgets was because Ed Sheeran was performing in Munich!
[which had been a bucket list item for me for 4 years at that point (and to think we had been able to see him in Europe, what a cherry on top!)]
destinations
Schloss Nymphenburg // one of the major palaces in Munich, I had to squeeze a castle in during our short time in Munich since we didn’t have time to traverse down to see the Schloss Neuschwanstein (😢 I suppose this is what I get for choosing Ed Sheeran over historic architecture). While this wasn’t THE Neuschwanstein, it scratched the castle itch!
Marienplatz // took a picture with the pretty Neues Rathaus (New Town Hall); the plaza had a lot of modern high-end shops and was vibrant with tourists. We did a pic-for-pic trade with a woman visiting from Hong Kong! Always so fun to use some Chinese. 😌
Olympiastadion München // Went to the Munich Olympic Stadium for the Ed Sheeran: +-=÷x Tour. Favorite part was where he demonstrated a couple of his songs using his loop pad, he is amazing live!
OlyDorf Bungalows // we rented an Airbnb in the Olympic Village where the athletes would stay during the Olympics (GOSH were the apartments teeny!). It made for the perfect location to easily walk to and from the Ed Sheeran concert. I highly recommend, especially if you want to fantasize yourself being an Olympic athlete (which I naturally indulged in too many times 😝).
food food
Paulaner Bräuhaus // the absolutely most amazing, jaw dropping, mind blowing, paradigm shifting, debate winning schnitzel that ever graced God’s green earth!
Viktualienmarkt // decked out with so many stands and shops and provisions to ogle at. What stuck with me the most was a cold cut salami sandwich with the most delicious flavor profile 😍
schnackos
True & 12 // loved chatting with the shop owner, he was from America and shared a bit of his journey transitioning to living in Germany. The ice cream itself is Jeni’s Ice Cream quality (that is to say, WOW!) but with a slower melt.
Post-Munich reflections: So glad to have experienced another large city in Germany. Munich and Berlin are day and night, and visiting Munich made me realize that Germany’s stereotypes weren’t too off base after all! The streets were noticeably cleaner, far less graffiti; everything Berlin was, Munich seemed not to be.
Rothenburg ob der Tauber
Oh, the cuteness that is Rothenburg! (and the craziness that was my campaign to convince Sean it was worth the day trip during our 3 day stint in Munich—I just knew deep in my bones that I needed to see a “small town” to get a well-rounded understanding of Germany, and I was right!)
destinations
Das Plönlein // iconic sight to see and take pictures in front of. The architecture and scenery with the two 13th-century gates (Siebersturm is on the upper level, Kobolzellerturm on the lower, opening onto the Tauber Valley) reminded me of Beauty and the Beast’s small Provençal town.
Marien-Apotheke Rothenburg // the main town marktplatz; peppered with fountains and outdoor dining, so atmospheric!
Spital Bastion // this is free to ascend and walk around; it was cool to be on the surrounding wall and get a different view of the city
every street & alley that ever existed // you’d think this town has an HOA with how every building is so cohesively beautiful & colorful. Window shopping and taking in all the architecture alone is worth the trip to Rothenburg. If you’re a decisive putzer like me, all the streets and shops can be strolled within 4-5 hours!
food food
Goldenes Lamm // cute interior and located in the main square in Rothenburg. The schnitzel and fries here weren’t as crispy and flavorful as I would’ve preferred! Wouldn’t recommend you dine here.
schnackos
Brot & Zeit // they had the best Pflaumenkuchen (plum cake) ever!! And maybe it’s because there was streusel on it too!! Would’ve tried more of their breads and pastries if I had more belly room.
Post-Rothenburg reflections: You won’t need more than 1 day here. 110% happy with the choice to endure additional train rides to see this quaint beaut! Sometimes large metro cities can all feel the same, even if you’re in a different country, so come here if you want to really feel like you’re in Germany.




~ cath!
Super impressed by the research, closer looks, and credits provided on each of the establishments you visited and experienced!!
Great travel guide :) Would have served me well if I had it when I visited!